OSCURO is an independent French fashion label founded in 2023 by Xavier Lopez, a self-taught designer from Alsace. Based in Gundershoffen, France, the house grew from Lopez's longstanding relationship with drawing, clothing and visual storytelling. Its name comes from the Spanish word 'oscuro,' meaning 'dark,' referencing both his family's Spanish roots and the deep black at the centre of the label's identity. OSCURO develops dark premium streetwear in which tailoring meets the street, with a suit trouser worn with a zipped hoodie capturing the label's design grammar. Each piece is developed with close attention to construction, fabric quality and weight, and is produced in small quantities. LE LAB extends this approach through unique, experimental and highly worked garments conceived as the house's creative laboratory. After presenting collections in France around selected social and environmental themes, OSCURO now takes its next step with its London debut for SS27.
UMBRA
SS27
UMBRA moves OSCURO towards a colder, more structured and almost solemn wardrobe. The collection brings together dark tailoring, urban utility and brutal elegance, while leaving its meaning open to interpretation. Its silhouettes build on OSCURO's streetwear foundations through sharper proportions, more formal construction and a stronger sense of restraint. Black dominates the palette, with colour used only rarely and intentionally. The principal techniques are cut-and-sew panelling and flocked heat-transfer applications: constructed fabric panels reshape familiar garments, while flocked graphics create controlled surface texture and visual depth. The material direction centres on heavyweight cotton, suiting fabrics and selected technical textiles. UMBRA is conceived as the natural continuation of OSCURO's existing work and the beginning of a more mature and ambitious chapter for the house.